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TT Spark plugs + coils
Your TT
Pick your year to see what fits.
There was no 2007 TT in the US. The 225, 3.2, TTS and TT RS are always quattro.
Why do it
Stock 1.8T coil packs fail often, and worn plugs and coils rob power. The R8 coil upgrade is a far more reliable coil that bolts on with adapter plates.
Tools you'll need
- Socket set with 10mm and a 5/8" spark plug socket
- Hex (Allen) bits
- Flathead screwdriver
- Spark plug gap tool or feeler gauge
- Torque wrench
- 3/8" ratchet and extension
- 5/8" spark plug socket
- Spark plug gap tool
- Torque wrench
- Coil puller (optional)
Parts to buy
- NGK PFR6Q spark plug (factory plug) Sold each. You need 4.Fits 2000–2006 · 180 hp, 225 hp
- ECS ignition service kit: 4 red coils + NGK BKR7EIX plugs (TT Mk2 2.0T) Everything for the job in one kit. The same kit as the Mk2 video.Fits 2008–2015 · 2.0T, TTS
- R8 "Red Top" coil conversion kit (1.8T) 4 Bosch R8 coils plus the adapter plates. The same upgrade as our video.Fits 2000–2006 · 180 hp, 225 hp
Doesn't fit your car (0)
Double-check fitment before buying.
Before you start
- You need 4 NGK PFR6Q plugs (the factory plug) and the R8 coil conversion kit, which includes the coils and adapter plates.
- Work on a cold engine.
- Gap all four new plugs before you start, so none get missed. The factory spec is 0.032" (a tuned car may want less; ask your tuner).
- You need the ignition service kit we list: 4 red coil packs and 4 NGK BKR7EIX plugs.
- The video is on a VW GTI with the same 2.0T engine family; the coils and plugs come out the same way.
Video guide
The same R8 coil upgrade we list, on a TT 225. Steps 2, 4 and 5 use a GarageTech clip that shows the coil removal more clearly.
Watch the whole videoVideo guide
The same red coil and BKR7EIX kit we list for the Mk2, shown on a GTI with the same 2.0T engine family.
Watch the whole videoSteps
Gap the new plugs
- Slide a feeler gauge or gap tool between the plug's tip and the bent electrode. The right size should slide in with a little drag.
- Adjust by gently bending only the outer electrode.
Remove the engine cover
- Turn the two cover fasteners a quarter turn and lift the cover off.
Move the charge pipe and N249 valve
- The 225 has extra pipework over the coils. Remove the charge pipe, then the single bolt holding the N249 valve and its ground wire, and slide it aside.
- Old vacuum hoses crack easily. Move them gently, and replace any that are hard or split.
Remove the coil bracket
- Unplug the main connector by pinching its clip. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the small vacuum reservoir and lift it out of the way.
- Remove the Allen bolts holding the metal bracket over the coils (older cars also have a bolt on each coil) and lift the bracket off.
Unplug and pull the coils
- Pull each connector toward you, press the clip at the back, then push the connector off. Don't pry with a screwdriver; the plastic snaps easily.
- Pull each coil straight up. They're tight, so use both hands.
Swap the plugs one at a time
- Use a 5/8" spark plug socket to remove one plug, then thread in a new one by hand right away so nothing can fall into the engine.
- Do all four, then torque them to the spec in your service manual. Plugs need very little torque.
Tip: If a plug won't turn easily by hand, back it out and start again. A cross-threaded plug can ruin the cylinder head.
Watch this step (4:15–5:18)Fit the R8 coils
- Bolt the adapter plates from the kit in place, then push each new coil down until it seats and plug it in.
Refit the N249 and charge pipe
- Slide the N249 back, refit its bolt and ground wire, check every vacuum hose, then refit the charge pipe and its hoses.
Reassemble and test
- Refit the engine cover.
- Start the car and let it warm up, then test drive. If you have a boost gauge, check boost and vacuum read normally after moving the hoses.
Remove the engine cover
- Pop the cover up off its four rubber grommets, one corner at a time.
Unplug the coils
- Press each connector's tab and slide it back. Loosen all four before pulling the harness off as a set.
Pull the coils
- Pull each coil straight up with even pressure on the front and back. A coil puller makes this easier.
Remove the old plugs
- Use a 5/8" spark plug socket on an extension to remove each plug.
Check the gap
- Check each new plug is gapped to 0.031". Iridium tips are brittle, so only bend the outer strap.
Install the new plugs
- Put a thin coat of dielectric grease on the top of each plug, thread them in by hand, then torque to 25 Nm (just enough to crush the washer).
Fit the new coils
- Drop the coils in, clip the connectors on, then press each coil fully down. Refit the engine cover and test drive.
How to know it worked
- Smooth idle with no shaking.
- No flashing check-engine light.
- Pulls smoothly all the way to redline.
- Smooth idle and no check-engine light.
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Safety first
- Park on flat ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
- Never get under a car held up only by a jack. Use jack stands.
- Let the engine and exhaust cool first.
- Disconnect the battery before unplugging electrical parts.
- Wear safety glasses.
- If something doesn't match your car, stop and ask a shop.
Follow your part's instructions and your service manual's torque specs.