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TT · Reliability
TT Diverter valve
Your TT
Pick your year to see what fits.
There was no 2007 TT in the US. The 225, 3.2, TTS and TT RS are always quattro.
Holds boost
Easy$245–$27030 min
Why do it
The stock plastic diverter valve tears and leaks boost, which makes the car feel flat. A metal replacement holds boost and lasts.
Tools you'll need
- Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
- Allen key (comes with the valve)
- Pliers
- Jack and jack stands
- 5mm Allen bit with long extensions
- 3/8" ratchet
Parts to buy
- Updated piston diverter valve 06H145710D (TT Mk2 2.0T / TTS) The latest piston-style revision that replaces the failure-prone rubber diaphragm.Fits 2008–2015 · 2.0T, TTS
- Forge FMDV008 diverter valve (TT Mk1) Metal, with extra springs for tuned cars. The same valve as our video.Fits 2000–2006 · 180 hp, 225 hp
Doesn't fit your car (0)
Double-check fitment before buying.
Before you start
- The Forge valve comes with a few springs. Stock cars keep the spring that's already fitted; tuned cars usually need a stiffer one (the chart in the box says which).
- Have a small hose clamp handy in case an old clamp breaks.
- The valve is on the back of the engine, on the turbo, reached from under the car above the passenger-side axle. The video is on a VW GTI with the same 2.0T valve.
Video guide
The exact Forge valve we list, on a 1.8T TT.
Watch the whole videoSteps
Fit the right spring
- If you need a different spring, remove the three Allen screws on top of the valve, swap the spring and tighten the screws back down.
Remove the engine cover
- Undo the two cover fasteners and lift the cover off. The diverter valve sits on the hoses near the front of the engine.
Remove the old valve
- Loosen the hose clamps on the lower and upper hoses, unclip the small vacuum line on top, and pull the old valve out.
Fit the new valve
- Put the new valve where the old one was, tighten both hose clamps firmly, and refit the top vacuum line with the cable tie from the box.
- Refit the engine cover.
Test drive
- Drive normally and listen for a smooth whoosh between gears. A hissing sound means a loose clamp.
Find the valve
- Raise the front, remove the passenger-side wheel, and look up behind the engine above the axle. The valve bolts to the turbo with an electrical plug on the bottom.
Remove the old valve
- Unplug the connector, then remove the three 5mm Allen bolts with long extensions. The valve comes straight out.
Fit the new valve the right way round
- A small nub on the valve lines up with a hole on the turbo, so it only sits flat one way, with the plug facing down.
Tighten and plug in
- Snug the three bolts (no need to go crazy), plug the connector back in, and refit the wheel.
How to know it worked
- No boost leak hiss.
- Smooth power between shifts.
- No check-engine light.
- No boost leak; strong, smooth boost.
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Safety first
- Park on flat ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
- Never get under a car held up only by a jack. Use jack stands.
- Let the engine and exhaust cool first.
- Disconnect the battery before unplugging electrical parts.
- Wear safety glasses.
- If something doesn't match your car, stop and ask a shop.
Follow your part's instructions and your service manual's torque specs.