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TT Coilovers

Why do it

Tools you'll need

• Jack and 4 jack stands
• Socket set (10, 16, 18 and 21mm)
• Hex key set
• Ball joint splitter or 4 lb hammer
• Hub spreader tool (optional)
• Pry bar
• Torque wrench
• Jack and jack stands
• 21mm, 16mm and 13mm sockets
• Breaker bar
• M14 multi-spline bit
• Hub spreader tool
• Spring compressors
• Allen keys and vice grips
• Copper grease

Parts to buy

• KW Variant 1 coilovers (TT Mk2 quattro, no magnetic ride) Height-adjustable stainless coilovers. For cars without magnetic ride.Fits 2008–2015 · 2.0T, TTS, 3.2 VR6 · quattro only
• KW Variant 1 coilovers 10281030 (TT Mk2 FWD coupe, no magnetic ride) For front-wheel-drive coupes.Fits 2008–2009 · 2.0T · front-wheel drive only
• KW Variant 1 coilovers 10210050 (TT Mk2 FWD roadster) For front-wheel-drive roadsters. Pick the version with or without magnetic ride on the page.Fits 2008–2009 · 2.0T · front-wheel drive only
• H&R Street Performance coilovers 29459-1 (TT quattro) Height-adjustable, for coupe and roadster quattro TTs.Fits 2000–2006 · quattro only

Double-check fitment before buying.

Steps

1. Crack the top nut on the ground

   • With the car's weight on the wheels, crack the top strut nut loose with a 21mm socket, then snug it back up so the spring can't fly off later.
   ▶ Watch this step (2:41–4:06)

2. Disconnect the front hub

   • Raise the car and remove the wheel. Undo the lower ball joint bolts, the sway bar drop link, and the headlight level sensor if you have one.
   • Remove the main strut pinch bolt (18mm).
   ▶ Watch this step (1:38–2:41)

3. Free the pinch bolt and wires

   • If the pinch bolt is stuck, thread it out through the rust or tap it through with an extension. Unclip the ABS and pad wear wires from the strut.
   ▶ Watch this step (4:39–6:33)

4. Separate the ball joint

   • A couple of sharp hammer taps on the hub separates the ball joint from the wishbone, so the hub can drop down.
   ▶ Watch this step (6:49–7:53)

5. Pull the strut out

   • Spread the hub with a spreader tool (or careful hammer taps), slide the strut out, remove the top nut and lower the strut out.
   • Leave the drop links for last, after both sides are back in.
   ▶ Watch this step (7:53–10:26)

6. Build the front coilover

   • Move the top mount, bearing, dust cover and bump stop to the new coilover, following the kit instructions. Use spring compressors on the old strut and never point it at yourself.
   ▶ Watch this step (10:26–14:11)

7. Fit the front coilover

   • Feed the top up into the strut tower and start the top nut. Line the tab on the back of the coilover up with the slot in the hub, then push it in (a jack under the ball joint helps).
   • Refit the pinch bolt, ball joint, ABS wire and brackets.
   ▶ Watch this step (14:11–18:00)

8. Refit the ball joint

   • Press up on the ball joint with a jack so the shaft goes fully into the hub, then tighten the nut.
   ▶ Watch this step (18:00–18:32)

9. Free the rear trailing arm

   • Jack the rear on the trailing arm and support it. Undo the headlight level sensor arm at its bottom bracket, then remove the big lower shock bolt (21mm).
   ▶ Watch this step (18:32–19:55)

10. Swap the rear spring

    • Push the arm down and pull the old spring out. Fit the new spring with its rubber cover on top, sitting against the locator tab.
    ▶ Watch this step (19:55–21:50)

11. Swap the rear shock

    • Remove the Torx screws for access, then the top shock bolt (16mm). Fit the new shock loosely, top and bottom.
    • Start the bolts by hand so they can't cross-thread.
    ▶ Watch this step (21:50–24:22)

12. Tighten at ride height

    • Jack each corner up to its normal ride height before tightening the shock and drop link bolts, so the bushings aren't twisted.
    • Torque the top nuts with the car on the ground, set your height, and get an alignment.
    ▶ Watch this step (24:22–25:15)

13. Raise the rear

    • Loosen the lug bolts, raise the rear onto jack stands and remove the wheel.
    ▶ Watch this step (SamPaddyProjectz, on a Mk2 TT) (0:48–1:04)

14. Undo the lower shock bolt

    • Break the 21mm lower shock bolt loose with a breaker bar and remove it.
    ▶ Watch this step (1:04–1:19)

15. Remove the rear shock

    • Pull back the arch liner to reach the two 16mm top bolts. Loosen them slowly so they don't snap, then remove the shock. Keep the washer.
    ▶ Watch this step (1:19–1:50)

16. Move the top mount

    • Hold the old shock rod with vice grips and remove the top nut. Fit the top mount to the new shock and tighten it with a ratchet and Allen key. Copper grease the adjuster threads.
    ▶ Watch this step (1:50–2:57)

17. Swap the rear spring

    • Lever the lower arm down with a breaker bar to pull the old spring out, fit the new one the same way, then refit the shock bolts.
    ▶ Watch this step (2:57–3:27)

18. Free the front strut

    • Raise the front and remove the wheel. Remove the knuckle pinch bolt with an M14 multi-spline bit; go gently, they can snap.
    ▶ Watch this step (3:27–4:22)

19. Pull the front strut

    • Spread the knuckle with a spreader tool, loosen the 13mm top bolts and lower the strut out.
    ▶ Watch this step (4:22–4:53)

20. Move the top hat

    • Compress the old spring with spring compressors, hold the rod with vice grips, and move the top hat to the new coilover.
    ▶ Watch this step (4:53–5:25)

21. Set the height and fit it

    • Set the starting height on the threads, slide the coilover into the knuckle (a jack under the hub helps) until it's fully seated, then refit the pinch bolt and top bolts.
    ▶ Watch this step (5:25–6:37)

22. Check clearance and align

    • Turn the steering full lock both ways and check nothing rubs. Drive gently to an alignment shop.
    ▶ Watch this step (6:37–7:25)

How to know it worked

• Car sits level at the height you set.
• No clunks over bumps.
• Steering is straight after the alignment.
• Level stance, no rubbing at full lock, aligned.

Follow your part's instructions and your service manual's torque specs.