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TT Cat-back exhaust

Your TT

Pick your year to see what fits.

There was no 2007 TT in the US. The 225, 3.2, TTS and TT RS are always quattro.

+3–8 whp (est.)
Medium$1,000–$1,4002–3 hrs
All TT mods

Why do it

A deeper, sportier sound than the quiet stock exhaust, in stainless steel that won't rust out.

Tools you'll need

Parts to buy

Double-check fitment before buying.

Before you start

  • The Magnaflow system we list fits the front-wheel-drive TT 1.8T. The video fits a different brand on a quattro, but the job is the same: unbolt, swap the hangers, refit.
  • Spray the exhaust bolts and clamps with penetrating oil the night before.
  • The Milltek system we list is for the TTS (resonated, so not too loud). It comes in three pieces and uses your factory hangers.

Video guide

Fitting a cat-back exhaust on a TT Mk1
by BWS TT on YouTube

He fits a Scorpion system on a 225; the Magnaflow we list comes off and goes on the same way.

Watch the whole video

Steps

  1. Raise the rear

    • Jack up the rear and put jack stands under each side so you have lots of room to work.
    Watch this step (1:06–1:21)

  2. Free the old exhaust

    • Old TT exhausts often rust through at the middle joint and come apart with a tap. If yours doesn't, unbolt it at the clamp.
    Watch this step (0:51–1:06)

  3. Support and unbolt it

    • Hold the exhaust up with a jack, remove the 13mm bolts at the hangers on each side, then lower it slowly and pull it out.
    Watch this step (2:56–3:50)

  4. Move the rubber hangers

    • Spray the rubber hangers with WD-40, then lever them off the old pipes with a flathead screwdriver and fit them to the new system.
    Watch this step (3:50–4:23)

  5. Test-fit the new exhaust

    • Lay the sections out on the ground in order, then lift the system into place with the jack, starting at the front joint.
    Watch this step (4:23–5:31)

  6. Check the clearance

    • Rotate each section until nothing touches the heat shields, the body or the suspension, and the pipe doesn't hang low.
    Watch this step (5:31–6:54)

  7. Tighten the clamps

    • Tighten each clamp firmly but don't crush the pipe. Keep the slits in the pipe ends under the clamp so they can't leak.
    Watch this step (6:54–7:43)

  8. Line up the tips and check for leaks

    • Center the tips in the bumper, tighten them, then start the car and listen for ticking or puffing at the joints.
    Watch this step (7:43–9:30)

  9. Lube the hangers

    • Raise the rear and spray the rubber exhaust hangers so the old system slides off easily.
    Watch this step (Danny Hampton, on a Mk2 TTS) (1:13–1:29)

  10. Undo the front clamp

    • Loosen the factory clamp where the cat-back joins the front pipe, and the reducer joint.
    Watch this step (1:29–2:06)

  11. Remove the stock exhaust

    • Support the exhaust, slide it off its hangers and lower it out.
    Watch this step (2:06–2:23)

  12. Hang the new exhaust

    • Bolt the three Milltek pieces together loosely and push them onto the hangers.
    Watch this step (2:51–3:23)

  13. Line up and tighten

    • Center the tips, tighten every clamp, then start the car and listen for leaks.
    Watch this step (3:23–4:01)

How to know it worked

Did this guide work for you?

Safety first

  • Park on flat ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
  • Never get under a car held up only by a jack. Use jack stands.
  • Let the engine and exhaust cool first.
  • Disconnect the battery before unplugging electrical parts.
  • Wear safety glasses.
  • If something doesn't match your car, stop and ask a shop.

Follow your part's instructions and your service manual's torque specs.