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TT Brake pads + fluid

Why do it

Tools you'll need

• Jack and jack stands
• 7mm hex socket (front guide pins)
• 13mm and 15mm wrenches (rear)
• 18mm socket
• Rear caliper wind-back tool
• Wire brush and brake cleaner
• Brake grease
• Brake bleeder kit or a helper
• Torque wrench
• Jack and jack stands
• 7mm hex socket (front guide pins)
• 13mm and 15mm wrenches (rear)
• Rear caliper wind-back tool
• Wire brush and brake cleaner
• Brake paste or grease
• Blue Loctite
• Torque wrench

Parts to buy

• Hawk HPS front pads HB272F.763A (TT 180 / 225) Street performance pad, low dust.Fits 2000–2006 · 180 hp, 225 hp
• Hawk HPS rear pads HB364F.642 (TT Mk1) Rear set for both sides.Fits 2000–2006 · 180 hp, 225 hp
• Motul RBF 600 DOT 4 brake fluid (500ml) High-temperature fluid. Get 2 bottles for a full flush.Fits 2000–2006 · 180 hp, 225 hp
• Hawk HPS 5.0 front pads HB625B.760 (TT Mk2) Listed for 2008–2009 TT and TT quattro.Fits 2008–2009 · 2.0T, 3.2 VR6
• Hawk HPS 5.0 front pads HB625B.760 (TTS) Listed for 2009–2015 TTS.Fits 2009–2015 · TTS
• Hawk HPS 5.0 front pads HB543B.760 (TT 2.0T 2010–2015) Listed for 2010–2015 TT quattro 2.0T.Fits 2010–2015 · 2.0T
• Hawk HPS 5.0 rear pads HB544B.628 (TT Mk2) Listed for 2008–2015 TT, TT quattro and TTS.Fits 2008–2015 · 2.0T, 3.2 VR6, TTS
• Motul RBF 600 brake fluid, 500ml (Mk2) High-temperature fluid. Get 2 bottles for a full flush.Fits 2008–2015 · 2.0T, 3.2 VR6, TTS

Double-check fitment before buying.

Steps

1. Open the fluid cap and remove the wheel

   • Loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood, then raise the car and remove the front wheel.
   ▶ Watch this step (1:18–1:33)

2. Remove the retaining clip

   • Pry the spring clip off the front of the caliper with a flathead.
   ▶ Watch this step (2:19–2:50)

3. Remove the guide pins

   • Pop off the two plastic caps on the back of the caliper and unscrew both guide pins with a 7mm hex socket. A breaker bar may be needed to start them.
   ▶ Watch this step (2:50–4:44)

4. Lift the caliper and remove the pads

   • Lever the caliper off the disc and rest it on the hub; never let it hang by the brake hose.
   • Unplug the pad wear sensor, then tap the old pads out.
   ▶ Watch this step (4:44–6:04)

5. Clean the carrier

   • Wire brush the spots on the caliper carrier where the pads slide, so the new pads move freely.
   ▶ Watch this step (9:18–9:50)

6. Push the piston back

   • Put an old pad against the piston and push it all the way back with a wind-back tool or a clamp. Watch the fluid reservoir doesn't overflow.
   ▶ Watch this step (10:06–11:41)

7. Fit the new pads

   • Put brake grease on the pad ears and backs (never the friction side). Clip the inner pad into the piston and set the outer pad in the carrier.
   ▶ Watch this step (11:41–12:46)

8. Refit the caliper

   • Set the caliper over the pads, clean and grease the guide pins, and screw them in. Plug the wear sensor back in, refit the caps and the spring clip. Do the other side.
   ▶ Watch this step (12:46–14:59)

9. Remove the rear caliper

   • Remove the two caliper bolts (13mm, holding the slider with a 15mm wrench) and pry the caliper off.
   ▶ Watch this step (rear brakes on a TT 225) (2:09–4:39)

10. Wind the rear piston back

    • The rear piston screws back in. Use a caliper wind-back tool (most parts stores rent them) and turn it until the piston is fully back.
    ▶ Watch this step (4:54–6:32)

11. Fit the rear pads

    • Clean and grease the guide pins, put brake grease on the pad slides and backs, fit the pads and refit the caliper bolts.
    ▶ Watch this step (6:32–9:49)

12. Bleed with fresh fluid

    • Bleed each corner in order: left front, right front, left rear, right rear. Open the bleed screw until clear fluid with no bubbles comes out, then close it.
    • Keep the reservoir topped up the whole time so it never runs dry.
    ▶ Watch this step (with a pressure bleeder) (2:43–4:48)

13. Pump the pedal and bed in

    • Tighten the reservoir cap. Pump the pedal until it's firm before you move the car.
    • Bed in the pads with several medium stops on a quiet road, then let them cool.
    ▶ Watch this step (5:04–5:34)

14. Check the fluid and remove the wheel

    • Check the brake fluid level; if it's full, take a little out so it won't overflow when the pistons go back. Raise the car and remove the wheel.
    ▶ Watch this step (FCP Euro, on a Mk2 TT) (2:38–3:54)

15. Remove the clip and dust caps

    • Pry off the anti-rattle clip, then the two dust caps on the back of the caliper.
    ▶ Watch this step (3:54–4:25)

16. Unplug the wear sensor

    • Disconnect the pad wear sensor from its harness. It comes out with the pad.
    ▶ Watch this step (4:25–4:41)

17. Remove the caliper

    • Unscrew both guide pins with a 7mm hex, lift the caliper off and hang it from the spring with a hook or zip tie, never by the hose.
    ▶ Watch this step (4:41–5:13)

18. Push the piston back and fit the pads

    • Push the piston back with an old pad and a piston tool. Clean the carrier where the pads sit, put a little paste on the pad ears, clip the inner pad into the piston and set the outer pad in place.
    ▶ Watch this step (8:07–10:09)

19. Refit the caliper

    • Clean the guide pins, screw them back in and torque them (about 25–35 Nm; check your manual). Refit the dust caps, wear sensor and anti-rattle clip. Do the other side.
    ▶ Watch this step (10:09–11:45)

20. Remove the rear caliper

    • Remove the two 13mm caliper bolts, holding the slider with a 15mm wrench, and set the caliper aside. Slide the old pads out.
    ▶ Watch this step (FCP Euro) (1:43–2:55)

21. Wind the rear piston in

    • The rear piston screws in. Use a wind-back tool to twist it all the way in, being gentle with the rubber boot.
    ▶ Watch this step (4:06–5:00)

22. Fit the rear pads

    • Slide the new pads into their clips, fit the caliper over them and refit the bolts with blue Loctite, about 30–34 ft-lb.
    ▶ Watch this step (5:43–6:24)

23. Bleed with fresh fluid

    • Bleed each corner (left front, right front, left rear, right rear) until clear fluid with no bubbles comes out. Never let the reservoir run dry.
    ▶ Watch this step (on a Mk1 TT; same process) (2:43–4:48)

24. Pump the pedal and bed in

    • Pump the pedal until firm before moving, then bed in the pads with several medium stops.
    ▶ Watch this step (5:04–5:34)

How to know it worked

• Firm pedal that doesn't sink.
• Car stops straight.
• No grinding or rattling.
• Firm pedal and the car stops straight.

Follow your part's instructions and your service manual's torque specs.