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Miata Lowering springs
Your Miata
Pick your year to see what fits.
There was no 1998 Miata in the US. The NB model started as a 1999.
Stance + less roll
Hard$230–$3504–6 hrs
Why do it
Drops the car and cuts body roll while keeping your stock shocks.
Heads up
Spring compressors can hurt you if they slip. Many people have a shop swap the springs.
Tools you'll need
- Jack and 4 jack stands
- Quality spring compressor
- Socket set
- Torque wrench
- Jack and 4 jack stands
- Quality spring compressor
- Socket set
- Torque wrench
- Jack and 4 jack stands
- Quality spring compressor
- Socket set
- Torque wrench
- Jack and 4 jack stands
- Quality spring compressor
- Socket set
- Torque wrench
Starting out? See our budget tool list.
Parts to buy
- Flyin' Miata lowering springs (NA) Pick the NA version. Made for street use.Fits 1990–1997
- Eibach Pro-Kit springs 910-231 (NB) Made for the factory shocks.Fits 1999–2005
- Eibach Sport springs 904-978 (NC) Only for cars without Bilstein shocks. The same brand as our video.Fits 2006–2015
- Eibach Pro-Kit springs 910-233 (ND) Made for the factory shocks.Fits 2016–2025
Doesn't fit your car (0)
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Before you start
- A cheap spring compressor can fail. Use a good one, or have a shop swap the springs.
- Book an alignment before you start.
- A cheap spring compressor can fail. Use a good one, or have a shop swap the springs.
- Book an alignment before you start.
- A cheap spring compressor can fail. Use a good one, or have a shop swap the springs.
- Book an alignment before you start.
- A cheap spring compressor can fail. Use a good one, or have a shop swap the springs.
- Book an alignment before you start.
Steps
Remove the fronts
- Raise the car and remove the front shocks.
Remove the rears
- Do the same at the rear.
Swap the springs
- Compress each spring, undo the top nut, fit the new spring and tighten the nut before you release the compressor.
Refit everything
- Bolt in the rears, then the fronts, and get an alignment.
Remove the fronts
- Raise the car and remove the front shocks.
Remove the rears
- Do the same at the rear.
Swap the springs
- Compress each spring, undo the top nut, fit the new spring and tighten the nut before you release the compressor.
Refit everything
- Bolt in the rears, then the fronts, and get an alignment.
Remove the struts
- Remove the front struts, then the rears.
Swap the springs
- Take each strut apart with the compressor and build it back up with the new spring.
Refit the struts
- Bolt in the fronts and rears, then get an alignment.
Remove the front strut
- Remove the wheel, then undo the top nuts and lower mounts, and take the strut out.
Swap the front spring
- Compress the spring, undo the top nut, swap in the new spring and rebuild the strut in the same order.
Refit the front
- Set the strut in place, support the hub with a jack to simulate the car's weight, and torque the bolts.
Do the rears
- Remove the trunk carpet to reach the top nuts, then disconnect the end link and swap the rear spring the same way.
Finish up
- Refit the wheels, lower the car and get an alignment.
How to know it worked
- Car sits level.
- No clunks or rubbing.
- Steering is straight after the alignment.
- Car sits level.
- No clunks or rubbing.
- Steering is straight after the alignment.
- Car sits level.
- No clunks or rubbing.
- Steering is straight after the alignment.
- Car sits level.
- No clunks or rubbing.
- Steering is straight after the alignment.
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Safety first
- Park on flat ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
- Never get under a car held up only by a jack. Use jack stands.
- Let the engine and exhaust cool first.
- Disconnect the battery before unplugging electrical parts.
- Wear safety glasses.
- If something doesn't match your car, stop and ask a shop.
Follow your part's instructions and your service manual's torque specs.