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Miata Cold air intake
Your Miata
Pick your year to see what fits.
There was no 1998 Miata in the US. The NB model started as a 1999.
+2–8 whp (est.)
Medium$370–$4551–2 hrs
Why do it
A freer-flowing intake adds induction sound and a small power gain.
Tools you'll need
- Socket set
- Screwdrivers
- Hose clamp pliers
- Socket set
- Screwdrivers
- Socket set
- Screwdrivers
- Jack and 2 jack stands
- Trim tool
- Socket set
- Screwdrivers
Starting out? See our budget tool list.
Parts to buy
- Cobalt cold air intake 901-984 (1990–1993) The exact intake in our video. Made for the 1.6L.Fits 1990–1993
- K&N 69-6000TR Typhoon intake (NB) The same intake as our video. Also fits the Mazdaspeed.Fits 1999–2005
- AEM 21-640C cold air intake (2006–2009) The same brand and seller as our video.Fits 2006–2009
- AEM 21-729C cold air intake (2010–2013) Same brand and install style as our video, made for 2010–2013 cars.Fits 2010–2013
- Mishimoto performance intake (2016–2021) The exact intake in our video, sold by the maker.Fits 2016–2021
Doesn't fit your car (0)
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Before you start
- The front bumper has to come off.
Steps
Remove the stock intake
- Prep the car, then take off the intake tube, airbox and airflow sensor.
Prep the new parts
- Prepare the new airbox and move your airflow meter over.
Fit the spacer
- Install the supplied thermostat spacer.
Install the intake
- Assemble the intake, then fit it and tighten every clamp.
Remove the old intake
- Unplug the airflow sensor and lift out the stock intake.
Fit the K&N
- Install the new tube and filter and tighten the clamps.
Remove the bumper
- Raise the front and take off the bumper.
Remove the stock intake
- Take out the stock airbox and tube.
Install the AEM
- Fit the new tube, filter and sensor.
Reassemble
- Refit the bumper and rev it to check for leaks.
Remove the stock intake
- Disconnect the sensor and take out the stock airbox and tube.
Build the new intake
- Move the parts over from the old intake and assemble the new one.
Install it
- Fit the intake to the engine, reconnect the sensor and tighten every clamp.
How to know it worked
- No check-engine light.
- Clamps stay tight after a drive.
- No check-engine light.
- Clamps stay tight after a drive.
- No check-engine light.
- Bumper lines up.
- No check-engine light.
- Clamps stay tight after a drive.
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Safety first
- Park on flat ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
- Never get under a car held up only by a jack. Use jack stands.
- Let the engine and exhaust cool first.
- Disconnect the battery before unplugging electrical parts.
- Wear safety glasses.
- If something doesn't match your car, stop and ask a shop.
Follow your part's instructions and your service manual's torque specs.