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Miata Brake pads + fluid
Your Miata
Pick your year to see what fits.
There was no 1998 Miata in the US. The NB model started as a 1999.
Firmer pedal
Medium$150–$2502–3 hrs
Why do it
Performance street pads bite harder and fade less, and fresh high-temperature fluid keeps the pedal firm.
Heads up
Brakes are safety-critical. If it's your first time, have someone experienced check your work.
Tools you'll need
- Jack and 4 jack stands
- Socket set
- C-clamp or piston tool
- Brake bleeder kit
- Torque wrench
- Jack and 4 jack stands
- Socket set
- C-clamp or piston tool
- Brake bleeder kit
- Torque wrench
- Jack and 4 jack stands
- Socket set
- C-clamp or piston tool
- Brake bleeder kit
- Torque wrench
- Jack and 4 jack stands
- Socket set
- C-clamp or piston tool
- Brake bleeder kit
- Torque wrench
Starting out? See our budget tool list.
Parts to buy
- Hawk HPS 5.0 front pads HB148B.560 (1990–1993) Listed for the 1.6L Miata.Fits 1990–1993
- Hawk HPS 5.0 front pads HB149B.505 (1994–2005) 2001–2005 cars with the Sport package have bigger brakes and need a different pad.Fits 1994–2005
- Hawk HPS front pads HB522F.565 (2006–2014) Street performance pad.Fits 2006–2014
- EBC Redstuff front pads DP32263C (2015–2023) Low-dust ceramic street pad.Fits 2015–2023
- Hawk HPS rear pads HB523F.539 (2016–2019) Listed through 2019.Fits 2016–2019
- Motul RBF 600 DOT 4 brake fluid, 500ml (Miata) High-temperature fluid. Get 2 bottles for a full flush.Fits 1990–2015
- Motul RBF 600 DOT 4 brake fluid, 500ml (ND Miata) High-temperature fluid. Get 2 bottles for a full flush.Fits 2016–2023
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Before you start
- Brakes are safety-critical. If it's your first time, have someone experienced check your work.
- Brakes are safety-critical. If it's your first time, have someone experienced check your work.
- Brakes are safety-critical. If it's your first time, have someone experienced check your work.
Steps
Remove the caliper
- Remove the wheel, the caliper and its bracket.
Fit the new pads
- Clean everything with brake cleaner, compress the piston, fit the pads and refit the caliper.
Bleed the brakes
- Flush with fresh fluid, starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. Keep the reservoir topped up.
Remove the caliper
- Remove the wheel, then the caliper.
Fit the new pads
- Fit the new pads, compress the piston and refit the caliper.
Bleed the brakes
- Flush with fresh fluid, starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. Keep the reservoir topped up.
Remove the front pads
- Raise the car, remove the wheel and take out the old front pads.
Fit the front pads
- Compress the piston, fit the new pads and refit the caliper.
Remove the rear caliper
- Take off the rear wheel and caliper.
Swap the rear pads
- Remove the old pads, fit the new ones and refit the caliper.
Bleed the brakes
- Flush with fresh fluid, starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. Keep the reservoir topped up.
How to know it worked
- Pedal is firm before you move.
- Bed in the pads with 8–10 slowdowns.
- Pedal is firm before you move.
- Bed in the pads with 8–10 slowdowns.
- Pedal is firm before you move.
- Bed in the pads with 8–10 slowdowns.
- Pedal is firm before you move.
- Bed in the pads with 8–10 slowdowns.
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Safety first
- Park on flat ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
- Never get under a car held up only by a jack. Use jack stands.
- Let the engine and exhaust cool first.
- Disconnect the battery before unplugging electrical parts.
- Wear safety glasses.
- If something doesn't match your car, stop and ask a shop.
Follow your part's instructions and your service manual's torque specs.