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Impreza · Power
Impreza Spark plugs
Your Impreza
Pick your year to see what fits.
This page covers the non-turbo Impreza, including the 2.5RS, Outback Sport and RS. The WRX and STI get their own page.
Restores lost power
Medium$40–$951–2 hrs
Why do it
Worn plugs cost power and throttle response. Fresh iridium plugs bring back the punch your engine had new, and they last for years.
Tools you'll need
- 10mm socket (shallow and deep)
- 14mm deep socket (the plugs sit sideways, so a thin-wall 14mm works)
- 1/4" and 3/8" ratchets
- Wobble extensions (short and long)
- 1/4" to 3/8" adapter
- Trim clip tool
- Magnet pickup
- Torque wrench
- 10mm socket
- 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket
- 3/8" ratchet (a flex-head helps)
- 3" wobble extension
- Wire gap tool
- Torque wrench
- 5/8" spark plug socket
- Extensions and a swivel (wobble) joint
- 3/8" ratchet
- Wire gap tool
- Torque wrench
- 5/8" spark plug socket
- Extensions and a swivel (wobble) joint
- 3/8" ratchet
- Wire gap tool
- Torque wrench
Parts to buy
- NGK Laser Iridium DILKAR7B8 (box of 4, 2017–2023 2.0L) The factory plug for the 2017–2023 Impreza. Comes pre-gapped.Fits 2017–2023 · 2.0L
- NGK Laser Iridium SILZKAR7B11 (box of 4, 2012–2016 2.0L) The factory plug for the 2012–2016 Impreza. Pre-gapped at 0.044".Fits 2012–2016 · 2.0L
- NGK Iridium IX BKR6EIX-11 (4 plugs, EJ 2.2L / 2.5L) Iridium upgrade over the factory plug for 1995–2011 2.2L and 2.5L engines, including the 2.5RS.Fits 1995–2011 · 2.2L, 2.5RS, 2.5L
- NGK Laser Iridium IFR6E-11 (box of 4, 1.8L) Long-life iridium plug listed for the 1993–1997 1.8L (Base, L, Brighton).Fits 1993–1997 · 1.8L
Doesn't fit your car (0)
Double-check fitment before buying.
Before you start
- You need 4 NGK DILKAR7B8 plugs. They come pre-gapped; don't bend the fine iridium tip.
- Work on a cold engine. The driver's side is the tight side, so do it first while you're fresh.
- You need 4 NGK SILZKAR7B11 plugs. They come gapped at 0.044"; check with a wire gap tool, never by bending the iridium tip.
- Work on a cold engine.
- You need 4 NGK BKR6EIX-11 plugs. Check the gap is about 0.043" (1.1mm) with a wire gap tool.
- Work on a cold engine. Your plugs have plug wires instead of coil-on-plug; pull them by the boot, never the wire.
- You need 4 NGK IFR6E-11 plugs. Check the gap with a wire gap tool against your owner's manual spec.
- Work on a cold engine. Your plugs have plug wires instead of coil-on-plug; pull them by the boot, never the wire.
Steps
Remove the intake tube
- Pop the body clip with a trim tool, loosen the two hose clamps (8mm), and lift out the intake tube and the half of the airbox with the airflow sensor.
Remove the battery
- Disconnect the negative terminal first, then the positive (10mm). Undo the tie-down (10mm, deep socket helps), unhook it from the tray and lift the battery out.
Move the wiring bracket
- Remove the bolts holding the wiring loom bracket on the driver's side (there's a second bolt a couple of inches behind the first) so the loom can move out of the way.
Unbolt the coils
- Each coil is held by one 10mm bolt. Crack them loose with a short wobble extension; the back one is tight against the A/C line.
- You can leave the coils plugged in and just let them hang.
Pull the coils
- Twist and pull each coil straight out. Check the bottom for oil; a little oil means a valve cover gasket is starting to leak.
Remove the front plug
- Use a 14mm deep socket on a long extension plus a short wobble. Unscrew the plug and pull it out with a magnet.
Remove the back plug
- The back driver's-side plug is the hardest. A 14mm deep socket, a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter and a 1/4" wobble extension gets it out.
Do the passenger side
- The passenger side has more room. Remove the coil bolts, pull the coils and remove both plugs the same way.
Fit the new plugs and put everything back
- Thread each new plug in by hand first so it can't cross-thread, then torque to the spec in your service manual. Don't overtighten.
- Refit the coils and their bolts, the loom bracket, the battery (positive first, then negative) and the intake tube.
Tip: Slip a short piece of rubber hose over the plug to start it by hand in the deep holes.
Watch this step (13:18–15:28)Make room on top
- Remove the intake tube and air box parts that sit over the coils, and move the battery out of the way on the driver's side.
Remove the passenger-side coils and plugs
- Unplug each coil, remove its 10mm bolt and pull it out. Unscrew both plugs with the 14mm socket on a wobble extension.
Install the new plugs
- Thread each plug in by hand first, then torque it to the spec in your service manual. Refit the coils and plug them in.
Tip: If a plug won't turn easily by hand, back it out and start again. A cross-threaded plug ruins the cylinder head.
Watch this step (3:43–7:36)Do the driver's side
- Same job on the driver's side; it's tighter, so take your time with the back plug.
Reassemble
- Refit the battery, air box and intake tube, then start the engine.
Make room on the driver's side
- Move the battery and intake parts that are in the way so you can see down to the front plug.
Swap the driver's front plug
- Pull the wire off by its boot, unscrew the plug with the 5/8" socket, and thread the new one in by hand before torquing it.
Swap the driver's rear plug
- The rear plug is tight against the body. A swivel joint between the socket and extension makes the angle work.
Make room on the passenger side
- Move the air intake parts on the passenger side out of the way.
Swap the passenger plugs
- Do both passenger-side plugs the same way, refit the wires until they click, and put everything back.
Make room on the driver's side
- Move the battery and intake parts that are in the way so you can see down to the front plug.
Swap the driver's front plug
- Pull the wire off by its boot, unscrew the plug with the 5/8" socket, and thread the new one in by hand before torquing it.
Swap the driver's rear plug
- The rear plug is tight against the body. A swivel joint between the socket and extension makes the angle work.
Make room on the passenger side
- Move the air intake parts on the passenger side out of the way.
Swap the passenger plugs
- Do both passenger-side plugs the same way, refit the wires until they click, and put everything back.
How to know it worked
- Starts and idles smoothly.
- No flashing check-engine light.
- Starts and idles smoothly.
- No flashing check-engine light.
- Starts and idles smoothly.
- No flashing check-engine light.
- Starts and idles smoothly.
- No flashing check-engine light.
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Safety first
- Park on flat ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
- Never get under a car held up only by a jack. Use jack stands.
- Let the engine and exhaust cool first.
- Disconnect the battery before unplugging electrical parts.
- Wear safety glasses.
- If something doesn't match your car, stop and ask a shop.
Follow your part's instructions and your service manual's torque specs.