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Impreza · Brakes
Impreza Brake pads + fluid
Your Impreza
Pick your year to see what fits.
This page covers the non-turbo Impreza, including the 2.5RS, Outback Sport and RS. The WRX and STI get their own page.
Firmer pedal
Medium$180–$2602–3 hrs
Why do it
Performance street pads bite harder and fade less, and fresh high-temperature fluid keeps the pedal firm.
Heads up
Brakes are safety-critical. If you've never done brakes, have someone experienced check your work before you drive.
Tools you'll need
- Jack and jack stands
- 14mm and 17mm sockets
- C-clamp
- Wire brush
- Brake grease
- Brake bleeder kit or a helper
- Torque wrench
- Jack and jack stands
- 14mm and 17mm sockets
- C-clamp or piston tool
- Brake grease
- Brake bleeder kit or a helper
- Torque wrench
- Jack and jack stands
- 14mm and 17mm sockets
- C-clamp or caliper piston tool
- Wire brush
- Brake grease
- Brake bleeder kit or a helper
- Torque wrench
- Jack and jack stands
- 14mm and 17mm sockets
- C-clamp
- Brake grease
- Brake bleeder kit or a helper
- Torque wrench
Parts to buy
- EBC Redstuff front pads DP32330C (2017–2025) Low-dust ceramic street pad. Listed for 2017–2025 Impreza, including the RS.Fits 2017–2025 · 2.0L, RS 2.5L
- Hawk Performance Ceramic front pads HB970Z.665 (2017–2020) Quiet, low-dust street pad that bites harder than stock.Fits 2017–2020 · 2.0L
- Hawk HPS front pads HB711F.661 (2011–2016) Street performance pad. Listed for 2011 2.5i and Outback Sport, and every 2012–2016 Impreza.Fits 2011–2016 · 2.5L, 2.0L
- Hawk HPS front pads HB432F.661 (2002–2010) Street performance pad. Shims and brake grease included.Fits 2002–2010 · 2.5L
- Hawk HPS front pads HB352F.665 (1998–2001) Street performance pad for 1998–2001 L, Outback and 2.5RS.Fits 1998–2001 · 2.2L, 2.5RS
- Hawk HPS rear pads HB452F.545 (2004–2007) Rear set for 2004–2007 2.5RS, TS, 2.5i and Outback Sport.Fits 2004–2007 · 2.5L
- Hawk HPS rear pads HB557F.545 (2008–2016) Rear set for both sides.Fits 2008–2016 · 2.5L, 2.0L
- Motul RBF 600 DOT 4 brake fluid, 500ml (Impreza) High-temperature fluid. Get 2 bottles for a full flush.Fits 1998–2025 · 2.2L, 2.5RS, 2.5L, 2.0L, RS 2.5L
Doesn't fit your car (0)
Double-check fitment before buying.
Before you start
- Loosen the brake fluid cap before you start so the pistons push back easily.
- Loosen the brake fluid cap before you start so the pistons push back easily.
- Loosen the brake fluid cap before you start so the pistons push back easily.
- Loosen the brake fluid cap before you start so the pistons push back easily.
Steps
Remove the caliper and pads
- Raise the front, remove the wheel and the two caliper bolts. Hang the caliper with a zip tie and slide the old pads out.
Clean the bracket
- Wire-brush the spots where the pads sit, clean and re-grease the slide pins, and fit the pad clips.
Fit the pads and caliper
- Push the piston back with a C-clamp, set the new pads in, refit the caliper and torque its bolts. Do the other side.
Finish up
- Refit the wheels and pump the brake pedal until it's firm before moving the car.
Remove the wheel and caliper
- Raise the front, remove the wheel, and undo the two caliper slide bolts. Hang the caliper on the spring with a zip tie, never by the hose.
Swap the pads
- Slide the old pads out of the bracket, move the clips over, and put a thin smear of brake grease on the pad ears (never the friction side).
Push the piston back and refit
- Push the piston back with a C-clamp and an old pad, set the new pads in, refit the caliper and torque the slide bolts. Do the other side.
Remove the wheel and caliper
- Raise the front, remove the wheel, and undo the caliper's two slide bolts. Hang the caliper with a zip tie, never by the hose.
Push the pistons back
- Use a C-clamp or piston tool with an old pad to push the pistons all the way back. Watch the fluid reservoir doesn't overflow.
Clean the bracket and slide pins
- Wire-brush the spots where the pads sit, pull out the slide pins, clean them and coat them with fresh brake grease.
Fit the new pads and shims
- Fit the clips and shims, put a thin smear of grease on the pad ears, and set the pads in the bracket.
Refit the caliper
- Slide the caliper over the pads and torque the slide bolts. Do the other side.
Remove the caliper
- Raise the front, remove the wheel and the two caliper bolts. Hang the caliper with a zip tie, never by the hose.
Fit the new pads
- Push the piston back with a C-clamp, move the clips over, smear brake grease on the pad ears and set the new pads in the bracket.
Check the slide pins
- Pull the slide pins, clean them and coat them with fresh brake grease so the caliper moves freely.
Reassemble and test
- Refit the caliper and torque its bolts, refit the wheel, and do the other side.
Remove the rear caliper
- Raise the rear and remove the wheel. Remove the two caliper bolts, lift the caliper off and hang it with a zip tie, never by the hose. Slide the old pads out.
Push the piston back
- Push the rear piston straight back with a C-clamp and an old pad. Watch the fluid reservoir doesn't overflow.
Grease and fit the new pads
- Put a thin smear of brake grease on the pad ears and backs (never the friction side), fit the clips, and set the new pads in the bracket.
Refit the caliper
- Set the caliper over the pads and torque its bolts to spec. Do the other side.
Remove the rear caliper
- Raise the rear and remove the wheel. Remove the two 14mm caliper bolts, lift the caliper off and rest it where the hose isn't stretched.
Remove the old pads
- Slide the old pads and shims out of the bracket.
Clean and grease the slide pins
- Pull the slide pins, wipe off the old grease, coat them with fresh brake grease and push them back in. Put a little grease in the grooves where the clips sit.
Fit the clips and new pads
- Fit the new clips/shims, then set the new pads in the bracket.
Push the piston back and refit the caliper
- Push the rear piston straight back with large pliers or a pushback tool, set the caliper over the pads and torque its bolts to spec. Do the other side.
Get the master cylinder ready
- Suck most of the old fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster and refill it with fresh fluid.
Bleed the rears
- Start at the right rear. Fit a clear hose to the bleed screw, have a helper hold the pedal down, open the screw, close it, and repeat until clean fluid with no bubbles comes out. Then the left rear.
- Keep topping up the reservoir so it never runs dry.
Bleed the fronts
- Do the right front, then the left front, the same way.
Check the fluid and bed in
- Top the reservoir up to the MAX line and pump the pedal until it's firm before you move the car. Bed in the pads with several medium stops.
How to know it worked
- Firm pedal that doesn't sink.
- Car stops straight with no grinding.
- Firm pedal that doesn't sink.
- Car stops straight with no grinding.
- Firm pedal that doesn't sink.
- Car stops straight with no grinding.
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Safety first
- Park on flat ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
- Never get under a car held up only by a jack. Use jack stands.
- Let the engine and exhaust cool first.
- Disconnect the battery before unplugging electrical parts.
- Wear safety glasses.
- If something doesn't match your car, stop and ask a shop.
Follow your part's instructions and your service manual's torque specs.