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Focus ST · Handling
Focus ST Coilovers
Your Focus ST
Pick your year to see what fits.
Every US Focus ST (2013–2018) is a hatchback with a 6-speed manual and the same 2.0L EcoBoost engine, so the same parts fit every year.
Handling + stance
Hard$1,090–$1,2003–5 hrs
Why do it
Lowers the ST's tall stance, cuts body roll, and lets you set the height you want, while still riding about as nicely as stock.
Heads up
Coilovers change the alignment a lot, so get a professional alignment right after. A compressed spring holds a lot of force: follow the compressor's instructions exactly.
Tools you'll need
- Jack, jack stands and a second jack
- 1/2" and 3/8" ratchets
- 10, 13, 15, 18, 19 and 20mm sockets
- 15mm and 17mm wrenches
- 5mm and 10mm Allen keys
- T8 and T30 Torx bits
- Snap ring pliers
- Spring compressor
- Pry bar
- Torque wrench
Parts to buy
- ST Suspensions ST-X coilovers 13230059 Height-adjustable, made by KW. The same kit as our video.Fits 2013–2018
Doesn't fit your car (0)
Double-check fitment before buying.
Before you start
- The ST-X kit is made by KW in Germany for the 2013–2018 Focus ST. The front struts are side-specific (marked L and R).
- You reuse the factory top mounts, so you'll need a spring compressor to take the old struts apart. Many parts stores rent them; some people have a shop do just that step.
- Book an alignment before you start.
Video guide
The exact ST-X kit we list. Long but very thorough; every bolt is shown.
Watch the whole videoSteps
Remove the cowl
- The tops of the front struts are under the cowl panel below the windshield.
- Pop off the two cowl covers and the wiper caps, remove the wiper nuts and wiggle the wipers off. Remove the two T30 screws at the edges and the two 10mm bolts in the middle, unplug the washer hose and lift the cowl out.
Disconnect the front strut
- Raise the car and remove the front wheel.
- Remove the sway bar end link, then the brackets holding the ABS line and the brake line to the strut.
Spread the knuckle
- Remove the pinch bolt that clamps the knuckle to the bottom of the strut.
- Thread that bolt in from the back against a piece of scrap metal. As it tightens, it spreads the clamp open so the strut can slide out. Only go far enough to see it open.
Unbolt the strut top
- Remove the three bolts holding the strut top to the strut tower.
- Hold the strut when the last one comes out, or it will drop.
Pull the strut out
- Push the suspension down hard while lifting and twisting the strut out of the knuckle. This is the hardest part.
- If it's stuck, put one top bolt back in loosely to hold the strut while you work it free.
Build the new front coilover
- Make sure you have the right side (L or R).
- Compress the old spring, remove the factory top mount, and fit it to the new coilover with the factory nut, washer and the plastic spacer. Set both front coilovers to roughly the same height for now.
Fit the front coilover
- The notch on the coilover goes to the back, against the slot in the knuckle. A helper holding it up makes this much easier.
- Refit the three top bolts, remove the spreading bolt, refit the pinch bolt, then the brake hose, ABS bracket and end link. Do the other side the same way.
Remove the rear spring
- Support the rear lower arm with a jack, then remove the single bolt that lets the arm swing down.
- Lower the arm slowly and remove the stock spring and its lower insulator.
Fit the new rear spring perch and spring
- Take the new lower perch apart (snap ring and three screws), fit it into the opening in the arm, and put it back together.
- Set both sides to the same height to start. Put the factory insulator on top of the spring, flat side down, then jack the arm back up and refit the bolt.
Swap the rear shocks
- Remove the wheel, the two nuts holding the shock bracket at the top, and the lower shock bolt.
- Move the bracket from the old shock to the new one, then fit the new shock. It's shorter than stock, so you may need a jack to push the suspension up. Do the other side.
Set the ride height
- With the car on the ground, adjust the front with the spanner wrench and lock it with the set screw. Measure from the knuckle bolt to the bottom of the spring: it must stay between 8.1" and 8.7".
- Adjust the rear by turning the adjuster bolt half a turn at a time on each side. The rear needs at least 12.8" from the center of the cap to the fender. Refit the cowl.
Get an alignment
- Drive gently to the alignment shop. Lowering changes the angles, and skipping this wears out tires fast.
How to know it worked
- The car sits level at the height you set.
- No clunks or knocks over bumps.
- Steering is straight after the alignment.
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Safety first
- Park on flat ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
- Never get under a car held up only by a jack. Use jack stands.
- Let the engine and exhaust cool first.
- Disconnect the battery before unplugging electrical parts.
- Wear safety glasses.
- If something doesn't match your car, stop and ask a shop.
Follow your part's instructions and your service manual's torque specs.