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Focus ST · Brakes
Focus ST Brake pads + fluid
Your Focus ST
Pick your year to see what fits.
Every US Focus ST (2013–2018) is a hatchback with a 6-speed manual and the same 2.0L EcoBoost engine, so the same parts fit every year.
Less dust + fade
Medium$300–$3302–3 hrs
Why do it
The stock pads are noisy and dusty. Performance ceramic pads bite harder, stay quiet and are easy on the rotors, and fresh high-temperature fluid keeps the pedal firm.
Heads up
Brakes are safety-critical. If you've never done brakes, have someone experienced check your work before you drive.
Tools you'll need
- Jack and 4 jack stands
- 3/8" ratchet
- 13mm and 14mm sockets
- 7mm Allen socket
- Small pry bar
- Rear caliper piston tool (rent one free at most parts stores)
- Brake grease
- Turkey baster
- Clear hose and a bottle (for bleeding)
- A helper to pump the pedal
- Torque wrench
Parts to buy
- Hawk Performance Ceramic pads, front + rear kit (BS42K) Both axles in one kit. Low dust and quiet. The same pads as our video.Fits 2013–2018
- Motul RBF 600 DOT 4 brake fluid (500ml) High-temperature fluid. Get 2 bottles for a full flush.Fits 2013–2018
Doesn't fit your car (0)
Double-check fitment before buying.
Before you start
- This kit has Hawk Performance Ceramic pads for both the front and rear.
- Take off all four wheels. The rear sway bar has to come down on both sides at once to reach the rear caliper bolts.
- The brake and clutch share the same fluid reservoir. Never let it run dry while bleeding, or you'll get air in the clutch too.
Video guide
The same Hawk pads we list, front and rear. The fluid steps use a second video from CW Performance on a 2015 Focus ST.
Watch the whole videoSteps
Lift the car and remove the wheels
- Raise the car on four jack stands (or a lift) and remove all four wheels.
Loosen the front caliper bolts
- Pop off the two small plastic covers on the back of the caliper, one top and one bottom.
- Loosen the 7mm Allen guide bolts underneath. They stay in their rubber sleeves.
Push the piston back and remove the spring
- Lever a small pry bar against the old pad to push the caliper piston back, so the caliper will fit over the thicker new pads.
- Remove the tension spring on the front of the caliper: hold it from underneath and pop the top edge off.
Swap the front pads
- Put a thin layer of the supplied brake grease on the backs of the new pads and on the edges where they slide. Never on the friction side.
- Lift the caliper off and support it; never let it hang by the brake hose. Swap the pads; a tight one may need a light tap.
Refit the front caliper
- Set the caliper back over the rotor, start the guide bolts by hand, then tighten them to your service manual's spec.
- Refit the plastic covers and the tension spring. Do the other front wheel the same way.
Drop the rear sway bar
- Remove the sway bar end links on both rear wheels and push the bar down. Now you can reach the lower caliper bolt.
Remove the rear caliper and wind the piston in
- Remove the covers and the retaining spring, then the caliper. It's usually tighter than the front. The parking brake cable can stay attached.
- The rear piston screws in rather than pushing in. Use a caliper piston tool on a 3/8" ratchet to wind it back in.
Swap the rear pads and reassemble
- Grease the slides, fit the new pads, slide the caliper back over and tighten its bolts.
- Refit the spring, the bolt caps and both sway bar end links.
Get to the fluid reservoir
- The brake fluid reservoir sits under the cowl. Remove the two T27 screws at the ends and the four push clips, then the 10mm bolts, and lift the cowl just enough to get a funnel in.
- Use a turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid and refill with fresh DOT 4.
Bleed each corner
- Have a helper pump the pedal and hold it. Open the bleed screw; when they say the pedal is on the floor, close it. Repeat until clean fluid with no bubbles comes out.
- Check and top up the reservoir often, at least halfway through each wheel. Then refit the cowl and the wheels and torque the lug nuts.
Bed in the pads
- Pump the pedal until it's firm. Then do six or seven moderate stops from about 30–35 mph, followed by three or four hard stops from about 40–45 mph, on a quiet road.
- Let the brakes cool for about 15 minutes before parking.
How to know it worked
- Firm pedal that doesn't sink.
- Car stops straight without pulling.
- No grinding or rattling.
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Safety first
- Park on flat ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
- Never get under a car held up only by a jack. Use jack stands.
- Let the engine and exhaust cool first.
- Disconnect the battery before unplugging electrical parts.
- Wear safety glasses.
- If something doesn't match your car, stop and ask a shop.
Follow your part's instructions and your service manual's torque specs.