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370Z Spark plugs
Your 370Z
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Sport package and NISMO cars have bigger Akebono brakes (the name is on the calipers), which use different pads.
Why do it
Worn plugs cause misfires and a rough idle. On the 370Z you take off the intake tubes and throttle bodies to reach the back plugs, which sounds scary but is just a few bolts.
Tools you'll need
- 10mm and 14mm sockets with extensions
- 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket
- Torque wrench
- Trim clip tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Dielectric grease
- New throttle body gaskets (recommended)
Parts to buy
- OEM VQ37VHR spark plug The factory plug for every 370Z. Sold each or as a set of 6 on the page.Fits 2009–2020
Doesn't fit your car (0)
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Before you start
- You need 6 plugs. The OEM VQ37VHR plug fits every 370Z.
- Use a 14mm thin-wall plug socket. A normal 5/8" plug socket is too wide.
- Buy new throttle body gaskets. The video reuses the old ones, but a flattened gasket can cause an air leak and a rough idle.
- Work on a cold engine. Disconnect the negative battery terminal first.
- The video shows one side. The other side is the same job.
Video guide
His car has a K&N Typhoon intake, so his intake tube looks different, but it comes off the same way. He shows one side; the other is the same. He reuses the throttle body gasket; we recommend a new one. Each ▶ button below jumps to that step in the video.
Watch the whole videoSteps
Remove the cowl cover and strut bar
- Pop out the push clips on the plastic cowl cover at the back of the engine bay and slide it out. It's clipped in, so go gently.
- Remove the strut tower bar's nuts on both sides (you may need a breaker bar) and lift it out.
Remove the intake tube
- Unplug the airflow (MAF) sensor, remove the bolt underneath, loosen the hose clamps and slide the tube out.
- Pull off the small breather (PCV) hose.
Remove the throttle body
- Unplug the throttle body connector by pressing its tab.
- Remove the bolts and move the throttle body aside. This opens up room to reach all three coils on that side.
Remove the coils
- Unplug each coil, remove its 10mm bolt, wiggle it gently and pull it straight up.
- Keep the coils in order. Don't swap them between cylinders.
Remove the old plugs
- Blow out each plug well first so dirt can't fall in.
- Use the 14mm plug socket on an extension to loosen each plug and lift it out.
Install the new plugs
- These come pre-gapped, but it's worth checking the gap matches the old plugs.
- Lower each plug in with the socket, thread it in by hand, then torque it to the spec on the plug box or in your service manual.
Refit the coils
- Put a small amount of dielectric grease inside each coil boot so it doesn't stick next time.
- Push each coil down, plug it in and snug its bolt.
Refit the throttle body and intake, then do the other side
- Refit the throttle body with a new gasket, plug it in, then refit the intake tube, PCV hose, bolt and clamps.
- Repeat steps 2–7 on the other side, refit the strut bar and cowl cover, reconnect the battery and start the engine.
How to know it worked
- Smooth idle.
- No check-engine light.
- No misfire codes after a few drives.
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Safety first
- Park on flat, solid ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
- Use jack stands rated for your car. Never get under a car held up only by a jack.
- Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before touching them.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging sensors or electrical parts.
- Wear safety glasses, and gloves around sharp heat shields and hot fluids.
- Tighten bolts to the torque spec in your factory service manual.
- If a step doesn't match your car or you're unsure, stop and ask a shop.
These are overview steps written to help you plan the job. Always follow the instructions that come with your part and the procedures and torque specs in your factory service manual. Horsepower is an estimate; results vary.