Home › Nissan 370Z › Cold air intake

370Z · Power

370Z Cold air intake

Your 370Z

Pick your year so we only show parts that fit your car.

Sport package and NISMO cars have bigger Akebono brakes (the name is on the calipers), which use different pads.

+8–15 whp (est.)
Medium$570–$6202–3 hrs
All 370Z mods

Why do it

Twin intakes that pull cooler air from in front of the radiator, for a real power gain and a great intake sound. The kit we list is 50-state legal and works without a tune.

Tools you'll need

Parts to buy

Always double-check fitment for your exact year, trim and transmission before buying. Prices change. ModBuddy doesn't earn money from these links.

Before you start

  • The Z1 carbon fiber intake we list is 50-state legal (CARB EO D-849) and doesn't need a tune.
  • The standard version fits without cutting. The optional Race upgrade needs the crash bar modified on 370Zs.
  • If your car has daytime running lights in the bumper, a second person makes bumper removal easier.
  • NISMO bumpers are different. Follow the kit's instructions for your bumper.

Video guide

Z1 carbon fiber cold air intake install (370Z)
by Z1 Motorsports (intake maker) on YouTube

The maker's own video for the exact intake we list. It's quick, so pause on each step. Each ▶ button below jumps to that step in the video.

Watch the whole video

Steps

  1. Disconnect the battery and lift the front

    • Disconnect the negative battery terminal, raise the front of the car and put it on jack stands.
    Watch this step (0:00–0:16)

  2. Remove the front bumper

    • Remove the bolts holding the under-tray to the bumper and the fender liners, then the clips in the wheel wells on both sides.
    • Remove the bolts at each corner where the bumper meets the fenders and the clips on top, then pull the bumper off. Removing the upper radiator air guide gives you extra room.
    Watch this step (0:16–1:12)

  3. Remove the cowl cover and strut bar

    • Pop the clips on the center of the rear cowl cover to reach the strut bar's back hardware.
    • Remove the strut bar nuts (14mm) and lift the bar out carefully.
    Watch this step (1:12–1:35)

  4. Unplug the sensors and loosen the old intake

    • Unplug both MAF sensors. Be gentle; you reuse these connectors.
    • Remove the engine cover if you have one (10mm), the breather (PCV) hoses, and loosen the clamps where the intake tubes meet the throttle bodies.
    Watch this step (1:28–2:08)

  5. Lift out the stock airboxes

    • Remove the 10mm bolts holding each airbox, then wiggle the whole assembly up and out (there are clips underneath).
    • Remove the factory air inlet ducts with a 10mm and needle-nose pliers.
    Watch this step (2:01–2:48)

  6. Prepare the new parts

    • Fit the new throttle body couplers. Assemble the aluminum union pipe into each filter (corrugated side into the filter).
    • Fit the new silicone breather hoses to the valve covers using the stock clamps, then move the MAF sensors into the new tubes with the airflow direction correct.
    Watch this step (2:48–3:23)

  7. Install the new intake tubes

    • Set the new tubes in place. On this kit the MAF sensors face down.
    • Connect the breather hoses to the new tubes with the stock clamps.
    Watch this step (3:23–4:03)

  8. Route the couplers and fit the filters

    • Work the large silicone coupler around the A/C lines and through the opening in the core support, and attach it to the tube.
    • Slide the union pipe into the coupler above the crash bar, then tighten every clamp once everything lines up.
    Watch this step (4:03–4:49)

  9. Plug in the MAFs and reinstall

    • Plug both MAF connectors back in until they click.
    • Refit the strut bar, cowl cover and bumper in reverse order, reconnect the battery and check for a check-engine light.
    Watch this step (4:45–5:14)

How to know it worked

Did this guide work for you?

Safety first

  • Park on flat, solid ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
  • Use jack stands rated for your car. Never get under a car held up only by a jack.
  • Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before touching them.
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging sensors or electrical parts.
  • Wear safety glasses, and gloves around sharp heat shields and hot fluids.
  • Tighten bolts to the torque spec in your factory service manual.
  • If a step doesn't match your car or you're unsure, stop and ask a shop.

These are overview steps written to help you plan the job. Always follow the instructions that come with your part and the procedures and torque specs in your factory service manual. Horsepower is an estimate; results vary.