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370Z · Handling

370Z Coilovers

Your 370Z

Pick your year so we only show parts that fit your car.

Sport package and NISMO cars have bigger Akebono brakes (the name is on the calipers), which use different pads.

Handling + stance
Hard$1,245–$1,4505–7 hrs
All 370Z mods

Why do it

Adjustable height and damping turn the 370Z into a sharper, flatter car. A mild drop rides surprisingly well.

Heads up

Coilovers change the alignment a lot. Get a professional alignment right after installing them.

Tools you'll need

Parts to buy

Always double-check fitment for your exact year, trim and transmission before buying. Prices change. ModBuddy doesn't earn money from these links.

Before you start

  • The BC Racing BR kit we list is for 370Z coupes. Roadster owners should confirm the right version with the seller.
  • Measure your ride height at all four corners (wheel center to fender lip) before you start.
  • New BC kits come set close to their recommended height. Make sure the left and right sides match before installing.
  • Book an alignment for right after the install.

Video guide

Installing coilovers: detailed walkthrough on a 370Z
by The Carizon on YouTube

BC Racing coilovers, the same brand we list. He hand-tightens and wraps a worn brake line in tape as a stopgap. Torque everything to spec, and replace a damaged brake line. Each ▶ button below jumps to that step in the video.

Watch the whole video

Steps

  1. Lift the car and remove the strut tower brace

    • Raise the car onto four jack stands and remove the wheels.
    • Remove the strut tower brace in the engine bay (three 14mm nuts each side, plus the trim and bolts at the back) to reach the tops of the front struts.
    Watch this step (0:54–1:28)

  2. Support the hub and remove the top nuts

    • Put a jack under the lower control arm so the hub can't drop when the strut comes loose.
    • Remove the three nuts on top of the strut. Don't drop them into the engine bay.
    Watch this step (1:28–2:09)

  3. Free the brake lines

    • Unclip the brake line and wires from the strut and remove the small bracket bolt, so nothing gets stretched when the strut comes out.
    Watch this step (2:09–2:31)

  4. Undo the lower strut bolt

    • Remove the large nut and bolt at the bottom of the strut, holding the other side with a wrench. You may need a breaker bar.
    • Tap the bolt back with a mallet and screwdriver so the strut can slide free.

    Tip: Hold the end link's stud with a wrench while you loosen it, so its rubber boot doesn't twist and tear.

    Watch this step (2:31–3:32)

  5. Remove the retaining plate and the strut

    • Remove the three bolts holding the black retaining plate. Turning the steering wheel the other way makes the inner bolts easier to reach.
    • Pull the bottom of the strut sideways and out, keeping clear of the brake lines.
    Watch this step (3:32–4:13)

  6. Set both front coilovers to the same height

    • Measure both front coilovers and make sure they match. You can fine-tune the height later.
    Watch this step (4:13–4:54)

  7. Fit the front coilover

    • Guide the coilover up into place around the brake lines and speed sensor wire, the same way the stock strut sat, and start the top nuts.
    • Refit the lower bolt, the retaining plate bolts, and all the brake line clips. Make sure nothing rubs.
    Watch this step (4:54–6:24)

  8. Tighten and lock the collars

    • Tighten every bolt to the factory spec in your service manual.
    • Lock the coilover's lower collar and top collars against each other so the height can't change on its own.
    Watch this step (6:24–7:06)

  9. Rear: support the arm and unbolt the shock

    • Support the rear lower arm with a jack.
    • Remove the bolt at the bottom of the shock and the two at the top, then lower the jack slowly to take the pressure off and remove the shock.
    Watch this step (7:06–8:46)

  10. Rear: swap the spring and fit the new parts

    • Remove the remaining bolt so the arm drops, press down firmly to free the spring, and take out the spring and its top seat.
    • Fit the new rear parts with matching heights left and right, and refit all the bolts.
    Watch this step (8:46–9:58)

  11. Check the height and get an alignment

    • Drive a few days so the springs settle, then measure and adjust if needed.
    • Get a professional alignment. Lowering adds negative camber at the back, and your tires will wear fast without one.
    Watch this step (10:34–11:36)

How to know it worked

Did this guide work for you?

Safety first

  • Park on flat, solid ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
  • Use jack stands rated for your car. Never get under a car held up only by a jack.
  • Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before touching them.
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging sensors or electrical parts.
  • Wear safety glasses, and gloves around sharp heat shields and hot fluids.
  • Tighten bolts to the torque spec in your factory service manual.
  • If a step doesn't match your car or you're unsure, stop and ask a shop.

These are overview steps written to help you plan the job. Always follow the instructions that come with your part and the procedures and torque specs in your factory service manual. Horsepower is an estimate; results vary.