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370Z Cat-back exhaust

Your 370Z

Pick your year so we only show parts that fit your car.

Sport package and NISMO cars have bigger Akebono brakes (the name is on the calipers), which use different pads.

+3–8 whp (est.)
Medium$350–$4502–3 hrs
All 370Z mods

Why do it

A deeper, louder V6 sound and less weight. Gains are small, so pick it mainly for sound.

Heads up

Don't break the studs on the catalytic converters. Soak them in penetrating oil ahead of time, because the new exhaust bolts back onto them.

Tools you'll need

Parts to buy

Always double-check fitment for your exact year, trim and transmission before buying. Prices change. ModBuddy doesn't earn money from these links.

Before you start

  • The DNA Motoring system we list is listed for 2009–2019 370Z coupes. It isn't listed for NISMO cars, which have a different rear bumper. The seller doesn't ship it to CA, ME or NY.
  • Soak the nuts on the catalytic converter studs with penetrating oil ahead of time. The new exhaust bolts back onto those same studs, so you don't want to break them.
  • The kit comes with new gaskets and hardware. Throw the old gaskets away.
  • Support the Y-pipe with a jack or stands so it can't drop while you work.

Video guide

Aftermarket exhaust install on a Nissan 370Z
by Mitch Nelson on YouTube

A shop installing a DNA Motoring cat-back, the same brand we list. They use an impact gun; hand tools work fine. Each ▶ button below jumps to that step in the video.

Watch the whole video

Steps

  1. Support the Y-pipe and loosen the nuts

    • With the car on four jack stands, put supports under the Y-pipe.
    • Remove the two nuts where the Y-pipe joins the resonators at the back, and the four nuts where it joins the converters at the front (14mm). Thread a couple back on loosely by hand to hold it for now.
    Watch this step (1:16–2:50)

  2. Drop the rear section

    • The rubber hangers sit on brackets held by 12mm nuts. Remove the bracket nuts (one near the front of the rear section, and three in a triangle on each side at the back) instead of prying the rubber off.
    • Lower the rear section to the floor. You'll move the rubber mounts to the new exhaust there.
    Watch this step (2:50–3:52)

  3. Remove the Y-pipe

    • Remove the nuts you left on, and slide the Y-pipe off the converter studs.
    Watch this step (3:52–4:30)

  4. Clean the flanges and fit new gaskets

    • Pull off the old gaskets and clean the flange faces.
    • Fit the new gaskets from the kit. Don't stack new gaskets on top of old ones.
    Watch this step (4:30–4:55)

  5. Fit the new Y-pipe

    • The flanges sit at an angle, which shows you which way the pipe goes. Feed it over the crossmember brace.
    • Start one side on its studs first, then the other. A little anti-seize on the studs makes the next removal easier. Start the nuts by hand.
    Watch this step (4:55–6:17)

  6. Move the mounts and fit the rear section

    • Spray a little lubricant on the rubber mounts and move them from the old exhaust to the new one.
    • Fit the rear section with its gasket and bolts (washer on the bolt-head side), and bolt the mount brackets back up with the original nuts.
    Watch this step (6:17–7:59)

  7. Line up the tips and tighten everything

    • Check the tips are centered in the bumper cutouts. Adjust the pipes until they are, then tighten everything front to back.
    • Start the car, listen at each joint for ticking or puffing, and recheck the nuts after the first drive.
    Watch this step (7:59–8:44)

How to know it worked

Did this guide work for you?

Safety first

  • Park on flat, solid ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
  • Use jack stands rated for your car. Never get under a car held up only by a jack.
  • Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before touching them.
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging sensors or electrical parts.
  • Wear safety glasses, and gloves around sharp heat shields and hot fluids.
  • Tighten bolts to the torque spec in your factory service manual.
  • If a step doesn't match your car or you're unsure, stop and ask a shop.

These are overview steps written to help you plan the job. Always follow the instructions that come with your part and the procedures and torque specs in your factory service manual. Horsepower is an estimate; results vary.