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370Z · Brakes

370Z Brake pads + fluid

Your 370Z

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Sport package and NISMO cars have bigger Akebono brakes (the name is on the calipers), which use different pads.

Firmer pedal
Medium$150–$3502–3 hrs
All 370Z mods

Why do it

Performance street pads and fresh high-temperature fluid give a firmer pedal and less fade on hard drives or track days.

Heads up

Brakes are safety-critical. If you've never done brakes, have someone experienced check your work before you drive.

Tools you'll need

Parts to buy

Always double-check fitment for your exact year, trim and transmission before buying. Prices change. ModBuddy doesn't earn money from these links.

Before you start

  • Check which brakes you have. Sport package and NISMO cars have Akebono calipers (4-piston front, 2-piston rear; the name is on the caliper). Base and Touring cars have standard calipers. The pads are different.
  • The main video is on Akebono brakes, where the pads come out through the top without removing the caliper. Standard-brake cars: use the extra clips on steps 2 and 6.
  • The video also changes rotors. That's optional; only replace them if they're grooved, have a lip at the edge, or are under the minimum thickness stamped on them.
  • Buy new pad pins, springs and clips (a hardware kit). Old ones are often worn.

Video guide

How to: 370Z brake install
by Z1 Motorsports on YouTube

A Nissan specialist shop on a Sport-package car with Akebono brakes. They also change rotors and use loud track pads; the street pads we list fit the same way. Standard-brake cars: see the extra clips on steps 2 and 6. Each ▶ button below jumps to that step in the video.

Watch the whole video

Steps

  1. Lift and remove the wheels

    • Loosen the lug nuts, raise the car onto jack stands and remove the wheels.
    • Turning the steering wheel gives you better access to the front calipers.
    Watch this step (1:14–1:51)

  2. Remove the retaining clips and pins

    • Pull the small retaining clips out of the pad pins with needle-nose pliers.
    • Tap the pins out with a small punch and hammer, and remove the anti-rattle spring on top.
    Watch this step (6:52–8:04) Standard brakes: removing the front caliper and pads (The Carizon) (9:05–11:48)

  3. Push the pistons back

    • Open the brake fluid reservoir cap. Use a pad spreader (or carefully, a large flathead) to push the pistons back into the caliper.
    • Pushing one side in pushes the other out, so work back and forth a few times. Watch that the reservoir doesn't overflow.
    Watch this step (8:04–8:35)

  4. Fit the new pads

    • Slide the old pads out. Put a thin layer of brake quiet paste on the back of each new pad (never on the friction side).
    • Slide the new pads in, friction side facing the rotor.
    Watch this step (8:35–9:52)

  5. Fit the new pins, spring and clips

    • Fit the anti-rattle spring the right way up (the part number faces out on Z1's hardware) and feed the pins through from the inside of the car outward, through the spring.
    • Fit the retaining clips. Turn the pin with pliers if the clip hole isn't lined up.
    Watch this step (9:52–11:40)

  6. Do the rear pads

    • The rear calipers work the same way: remove the clips, tap out the pins, push the pistons back, fit the new pads with paste and the new hardware.
    Watch this step (14:21–16:56) Standard brakes: the rear pads (The Carizon) (1:02–8:44)

  7. Bleed with fresh fluid

    • Pump the pedal until it's firm. Then bleed each corner until clean fluid with no bubbles comes out, following your service manual's order.
    • Keep the reservoir topped up the whole time so you don't pull air in.
    Bleeding the brakes (Z1 Motorsports, shown on a 350Z; same process) (16:07–17:16)

  8. Bed in the pads

    • Follow the pad maker's bedding instructions on a quiet road (usually several medium stops without coming to a full stop), then let the brakes cool before parking.
    Watch this step (18:41–19:20)

How to know it worked

Did this guide work for you?

Safety first

  • Park on flat, solid ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
  • Use jack stands rated for your car. Never get under a car held up only by a jack.
  • Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before touching them.
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging sensors or electrical parts.
  • Wear safety glasses, and gloves around sharp heat shields and hot fluids.
  • Tighten bolts to the torque spec in your factory service manual.
  • If a step doesn't match your car or you're unsure, stop and ask a shop.

These are overview steps written to help you plan the job. Always follow the instructions that come with your part and the procedures and torque specs in your factory service manual. Horsepower is an estimate; results vary.