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350Z Cold air intake

Your 350Z

Pick your year so we only show parts that fit your car.

In the US, 2003 350Zs were coupes only and 2009 350Zs were roadsters only. 2003–2006 cars have the VQ35DE engine, 2007–2009 the VQ35HR.

+5–10 whp (est.)
Medium$270–$3402–3 hrs
All 350Z mods

Why do it

Pulls cooler air from in front of the radiator instead of the hot engine bay, for a small power gain and a louder intake growl. The kit we list is 50-state legal and doesn't need a tune.

Tools you'll need

Parts to buy

Always double-check fitment for your exact year, trim and transmission before buying. Prices change. ModBuddy doesn't earn money from these links.

Before you start

  • The Z1 M-Spec intake we list fits 2003–2006 (VQ35DE) 350Zs only. 2007–2009 (HR) cars use two smaller intakes; the simple option for them is a pair of K&N drop-in filters in the stock airboxes.
  • This intake is 50-state legal (CARB EO D-849). Keep the sticker for inspections.
  • Lifting the front onto jack stands lets the wheels drop, which makes the bumper bolts much easier to reach.
  • Buy a few spare plastic push clips. Old ones break.

Video guide

Z1 Motorsports cold air intake install on a 350Z
by Z-speed on YouTube

The same Z1 M-Spec street intake we list, on a VQ35DE 350Z. The steps are clear and he points out where every bolt is. Each ▶ button below jumps to that step in the video.

Watch the whole video

Steps

  1. Lift the front and remove the under-tray

    • Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Raise the front and put it on jack stands.
    • Remove the 10mm bolts holding the plastic under-tray to the bottom of the bumper.
    Watch this step (1:03–2:04)

  2. Remove the clips on top of the bumper

    • Pop up the center of each two-piece push clip along the top of the bumper with a small flathead or a trim tool, then pull the clip out.
    • If one sticks, use a plastic trim tool instead of a screwdriver so you don't scratch the paint.
    Watch this step (2:04–2:45)

  3. Remove the fender bolts and the bumper

    • Remove the small screw on the fender liner and pull the liner back. Behind it are three bolts holding each corner of the bumper.
    • Once all six are out, the bumper lifts straight off. Set it on a towel.
    Watch this step (2:45–4:08)

  4. Remove the MAF sensor

    • Unplug the airflow (MAF) sensor and remove its two Phillips screws. Take it out first so it can't get knocked around.
    • Optional: spray it with MAF cleaner only (no other cleaner) and let it air dry.
    Watch this step (4:08–4:50)

  5. Remove the stock intake

    • Remove the airbox (or old filter), the small bracket holding the tube, and lift the tube out.
    • Pull the small breather hose off the driver's side valve cover end of the tube. It's tight, so wiggle it.
    Watch this step (4:50–5:30)

  6. Remove the bumper support bracket

    • Remove the small metal bracket in front of the opening (one 10mm bolt). Keep the bolt. It goes back later through the new intake's bracket.
    Watch this step (5:51–6:12)

  7. Fit the engine-bay pipe and coupler

    • Connect the breather hose to the new pipe using its existing clamp.
    • Fit the silicone coupler onto the throttle body with both clamps on it, and slide the pipe in. Leave the clamps loose for now.
    Watch this step (6:12–7:14)

  8. Fit the front pipe and filter

    • The end with the lip goes into the coupler in the engine bay. The smooth end takes the filter.
    • Line the pipe's bracket up with the bumper bracket bolt hole and refit that 10mm bolt with the bracket. This holds the whole intake in place.
    Watch this step (7:14–8:16)

  9. Check the filter clearance and tighten everything

    • Reach behind the filter and make sure it doesn't touch the radiator. If it's close, a washer behind the bracket moves it forward.
    • Tighten all the clamps and install the MAF sensor with the new screws, airflow arrow pointing toward the engine.

    Tip: A filter rubbing on the radiator can wear a hole in it over time. Check this carefully.

    Watch this step (8:16–10:01)

  10. Refit the bumper and test

    • Refit the bumper, fender bolts, clips and under-tray. Reconnect the battery.
    • Start the engine and listen for whistling (a loose clamp). Check for a check-engine light after a short drive.
    Watch this step (10:22–11:55)

How to know it worked

Did this guide work for you?

Safety first

  • Park on flat, solid ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
  • Use jack stands rated for your car. Never get under a car held up only by a jack.
  • Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before touching them.
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging sensors or electrical parts.
  • Wear safety glasses, and gloves around sharp heat shields and hot fluids.
  • Tighten bolts to the torque spec in your factory service manual.
  • If a step doesn't match your car or you're unsure, stop and ask a shop.

These are overview steps written to help you plan the job. Always follow the instructions that come with your part and the procedures and torque specs in your factory service manual. Horsepower is an estimate; results vary.