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350Z · Handling

350Z Coilovers

Your 350Z

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In the US, 2003 350Zs were coupes only and 2009 350Zs were roadsters only. 2003–2006 cars have the VQ35DE engine, 2007–2009 the VQ35HR.

Handling + stance
Hard$1,195–$1,4005–7 hrs
All 350Z mods

Why do it

Adjustable height and damping for flatter cornering and the stance you want. Start at a mild drop for the street.

Heads up

Coilovers change the alignment a lot. Get a professional alignment right after installing them.

Tools you'll need

Parts to buy

Always double-check fitment for your exact year, trim and transmission before buying. Prices change. ModBuddy doesn't earn money from these links.

Before you start

  • The BC Racing BR "true" kit we list puts the rear spring on the shock (a true coilover). The video uses the same style.
  • Lift both front corners at once. With only one side up, the sway bar fights you and the suspension won't drop far enough.
  • Measure your ride height at all four corners (wheel center to fender lip) before you start, and book an alignment for right after.
  • Spray every suspension bolt with penetrating oil ahead of time.

Video guide

Installing BC Racing BR coilovers on a Z33
by Garage 23 on YouTube

The same BC Racing BR true-coilover style we list, on a 2004 350Z. Skip 6:10–8:45 (comparing the old and new coilovers). Each ▶ button below jumps to that step in the video.

Watch the whole video

Steps

  1. Lift the car and remove the wheels

    • Break the lug nuts loose while the car is still on the ground.
    • Lift the car, support it on jack stands under solid points (never on suspension parts), and remove the wheels.
    Watch this step (0:35–2:03)

  2. Remove the strut tower bar

    • Some of the front strut's top nuts are under the strut bar. Remove the bar's nuts on each side and lift it out.
    Watch this step (2:03–2:57)

  3. Support the knuckle and undo the top nuts

    • Put a jack under the lower control arm so the hub can't drop suddenly.
    • Remove the 12mm nuts on top of the strut in the engine bay, then lower the jack slowly.
    Watch this step (2:57–3:53)

  4. Unbolt the bottom of the strut and the lines

    • Remove the bolt holding the bottom of the strut to the control arm.
    • Unbolt the brake line and ABS wire brackets from the strut so nothing gets stretched.

    Tip: Be careful with the ABS sensor wire. If it gets yanked, you'll have ABS and traction control warning lights.

    Watch this step (3:53–4:19)

  5. Free the strut and take it out

    • Loosen the sway bar end link on the other side too, so the suspension can drop further.
    • Pry the knuckle down just enough to slide the strut out, watching the ABS wire the whole time.
    Watch this step (4:19–6:07)

  6. Install the front coilovers

    • Put the coilover up into the tower and start the top nuts by hand.
    • Jack the knuckle up until the lower mount lines up, fit the lower bolt and nut, then reattach the brake line and ABS brackets. Make sure the brackets are on the correct side so the lines sit naturally.
    Watch this step (8:45–11:09)

  7. Refit the strut bar

    • Tighten the top nuts and lower bolts, then refit the strut tower bar.
    • If the tire has been rubbing the pinch weld on the frame rail (a shiny spot), now is the time to fold it out of the way gently.
    Watch this step (11:09–12:21)

  8. Rear: remove the shock

    • Support the rear lower arm with a jack. Remove the two 12mm nuts at the top of the shock and the 17mm bolt at the bottom, and take the shock out.
    Watch this step (12:37–14:19)

  9. Rear: remove the spring

    • Loosen the spring bucket bolt so the arm can drop, then lower the jack slowly and lift the spring out.
    • With true rear coilovers, the spring seat stays empty.
    Watch this step (13:49–15:15)

  10. Rear: set the damping and install

    • Set the damping before you install the rears, because the knob can be hard to reach once they're in. Start in the middle of the range.
    • Fit the coilover, start the top nuts, fit the lower bolt and refit the spring bucket bolt.

    Tip: The kit's rear lower mount may not have a captive nut. Use a new self-locking (nyloc) nut of the same size.

    Watch this step (16:40–19:58)

  11. Drive, settle, adjust and align

    • Torque every bolt to the kit or service manual spec. Some suspension bolts must be tightened with the car's weight on the wheels, as your manual describes.
    • Drive a few miles so the springs settle, then measure and adjust the height evenly side to side. Then get the alignment.
    Watch this step (19:58–21:33)

How to know it worked

Did this guide work for you?

Safety first

  • Park on flat, solid ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
  • Use jack stands rated for your car. Never get under a car held up only by a jack.
  • Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before touching them.
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging sensors or electrical parts.
  • Wear safety glasses, and gloves around sharp heat shields and hot fluids.
  • Tighten bolts to the torque spec in your factory service manual.
  • If a step doesn't match your car or you're unsure, stop and ask a shop.

These are overview steps written to help you plan the job. Always follow the instructions that come with your part and the procedures and torque specs in your factory service manual. Horsepower is an estimate; results vary.