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350Z Cat-back exhaust

Your 350Z

Pick your year so we only show parts that fit your car.

In the US, 2003 350Zs were coupes only and 2009 350Zs were roadsters only. 2003–2006 cars have the VQ35DE engine, 2007–2009 the VQ35HR.

+3–8 whp (est.)
Hard$420–$6003–5 hrs
All 350Z mods

Why do it

A deeper V6 sound and a lot less weight than the heavy stock mufflers. Power gains are small, so pick it mainly for sound.

Heads up

Old exhaust nuts are often rusted. Soak them in penetrating oil the night before, and use 6-point sockets so you don't round them off.

Tools you'll need

Parts to buy

Always double-check fitment for your exact year, trim and transmission before buying. Prices change. ModBuddy doesn't earn money from these links.

Before you start

  • The Rev9 system we list is listed for 2003–2008 350Z coupes (plus the G35 coupe). Roadster owners should confirm fit with the seller first.
  • Soak every exhaust nut and bolt in penetrating oil the night before. On older cars they're often badly rusted.
  • Use 6-point sockets, not 12-point. A 12-point socket can round off a rusty nut, which turns a 3-hour job into a long day.
  • Buy new exhaust gaskets and new flange nuts for the catalytic converter studs (M10 x 1.25) before you start.
  • Language warning: the person in the video swears a few times. The steps are detailed and clear.

Video guide

How to install a cat-back dual exhaust (350Z)
by Jake Cande on YouTube

The same Rev9 dual exhaust we list, very detailed on every bolt. Some swearing. He rounds off a nut with a 12-point socket, which is exactly why we say to use 6-point. Each ▶ button below jumps to that step in the video.

Watch the whole video

Steps

  1. Lift the car and soak the bolts

    • Raise the car as high as you safely can on four jack stands and let the exhaust cool completely.
    • Spray every nut and bolt you'll remove again, and lay out your 14mm and 12mm 6-point sockets, a wobble extension and a breaker bar.
    Watch this step (1:33–3:04)

  2. Unbolt the mid-pipe from the resonators

    • Where the mid-pipe meets the front pipes, remove the two nuts and bolts on each side. One holds a small ground wire; note where it goes.
    • A wobble extension helps you reach these at an angle.

    Tip: If a nut gets tight halfway off, stop, spray it again and work it back and forth. Slow is better than a snapped bolt.

    Watch this step (3:04–4:34)

  3. Unbolt the Y-pipe from the catalytic converters

    • Remove the two nuts on each converter flange. These are often the most rusted.
    • If you can't get enough leverage, a jack under the breaker bar handle can push it slowly. Keep the socket fully seated on the nut.
    Watch this step (4:34–7:20)

  4. Remove the chassis brace

    • The W-shaped brace under the car blocks the exhaust from dropping. Remove the plastic covers at its ends (10mm), then the three 12mm bolts at each end.
    • Loosen the four 14mm bolts in the middle last, while holding the brace with one hand so it can't fall on you.
    Watch this step (7:20–9:57)

  5. Unbolt the muffler hanger brackets

    • Support the exhaust with a jack. Remove the small plastic covers near the mufflers (10mm), then the three 12mm bolts on each hanger bracket.
    • Removing the whole bracket is easier than fighting the rubber hangers.
    Watch this step (9:57–12:30)

  6. Lower the old exhaust out

    • Remove the last hanger bolt behind the muffler, lower the jack and pull the system back off the converter studs.
    • The stock exhaust is heavy. Get a helper if you can.
    Watch this step (12:30–13:11)

  7. Prepare the new gaskets and hardware

    • Throw away the old gaskets and use new ones everywhere you can.
    • Clean the converter studs with a wire brush so the new nuts thread on smoothly.
    Watch this step (13:11–15:13)

  8. Hang the new mid-pipe and Y-pipe

    • Hang the mid-pipe on its rear hanger first and start its nut by hand.
    • Fit the new gaskets, guide the Y-pipe onto the converter studs (a jack under it helps), and start all the nuts by hand. Leave everything loose.
    Watch this step (15:13–18:46)

  9. Fit the mufflers

    • Do the driver's side first. Support the muffler with a jack, start the flange bolts with its gasket, then bolt the hanger bracket back up.
    • Repeat on the passenger side. Keep everything loose until both sides are on.
    Watch this step (18:46–20:49)

  10. Tighten, check for leaks and refit the brace

    • Adjust until the tips sit evenly in the bumper and nothing touches the body, then tighten every nut and bolt, front to back.
    • Start the car and listen at each joint for ticking or puffing. Then refit the covers and the chassis brace (four 14mm bolts in the middle, three 12mm at each end).

    Tip: Never drive without the chassis brace. It stiffens the car and protects the exhaust.

    Watch this step (20:49–23:37)

How to know it worked

Did this guide work for you?

Safety first

  • Park on flat, solid ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
  • Use jack stands rated for your car. Never get under a car held up only by a jack.
  • Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before touching them.
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging sensors or electrical parts.
  • Wear safety glasses, and gloves around sharp heat shields and hot fluids.
  • Tighten bolts to the torque spec in your factory service manual.
  • If a step doesn't match your car or you're unsure, stop and ask a shop.

These are overview steps written to help you plan the job. Always follow the instructions that come with your part and the procedures and torque specs in your factory service manual. Horsepower is an estimate; results vary.