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350Z Brake pads + fluid

Your 350Z

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In the US, 2003 350Zs were coupes only and 2009 350Zs were roadsters only. 2003–2006 cars have the VQ35DE engine, 2007–2009 the VQ35HR.

Firmer pedal
Medium$150–$3502–3 hrs
All 350Z mods

Why do it

Performance street pads and fresh high-temperature fluid give a firmer pedal and less fade during hard driving.

Heads up

Brakes are safety-critical. If you've never done brakes, have someone experienced check your work before you drive.

Tools you'll need

Parts to buy

Always double-check fitment for your exact year, trim and transmission before buying. Prices change. ModBuddy doesn't earn money from these links.

Before you start

  • Check which brakes you have. Most 350Zs have standard sliding calipers. Track and some other trims have Brembo calipers (the word Brembo is on them), which use different pads.
  • The video uses track pads and new rotors. For the street, the Hawk HPS pads we list are a better fit. If your rotors are grooved, have a lip at the edge, or are under the minimum thickness stamped on them, replace them too.
  • Release the parking brake before working on the rears.
  • Brake fluid damages paint. Keep a rag handy and wipe spills right away.

Video guide

How to replace brake pads and rotors on a base-brake 350Z
by Z1 Motorsports on YouTube

A Nissan specialist shop on a standard-brake 350Z. They fit track pads and new rotors; the steps are the same with the street pads we list. Each ▶ button below jumps to that step in the video.

Watch the whole video

Steps

  1. Lift and remove the wheels

    • Loosen the lug nuts, raise the car onto jack stands and remove the wheels.
    • Turn the steering wheel so the front caliper faces out. It gives you more room.
    Watch this step (1:24–1:55)

  2. Remove the caliper

    • Remove the two caliper bolts (14mm, hold the nut behind with a 17mm).
    • Slide the caliper off and rest it on the suspension or hang it with a hook. Never let it hang by the brake hose.
    Watch this step (1:55–2:53)

  3. Take out the old pads

    • The pads slide out of the bracket. If you might reuse them, mark which side each came from.
    Watch this step (2:53–3:20)

  4. Optional: replace the rotors

    • Remove the caliper bracket (the bolts are tight, so use a breaker bar). Keep the washers.
    • Clean the hub with a wire brush, wipe the new rotor's coating off with brake cleaner, and refit the bracket.
    Watch this step (3:20–6:00)

  5. Push the piston back

    • Open the brake fluid reservoir cap. Push the caliper piston back slowly with a piston tool or a C-clamp against an old pad.
    • Watch the reservoir so it doesn't overflow.
    Watch this step (6:28–8:04)

  6. Fit the new pads and caliper

    • Put a thin layer of brake lube or anti-squeal paste on the back of the pads and the spots where they touch the bracket. Never on the pad surface or rotor.
    • Fit the pads with the friction material facing the rotor, slide the caliper on, refit the bolts and torque them to spec.
    Watch this step (8:04–10:35) Brembo cars: fixed calipers swap pads through the top like this (shown on a 370Z's fixed calipers) (8:35–11:40)

  7. Do the rear brakes

    • Same idea at the back, but tighter. A wrench (one with a swivel head helps) reaches the lower caliper bolts behind the control arm.
    • If you're changing rear rotors, the parking brake must be off. Line up the adjuster hole when you fit the new rotor.
    Watch this step (10:35–15:34)

  8. Bleed with fresh fluid

    • Bleed each corner until clean fluid with no bubbles comes out, following your service manual's order (usually farthest from the master cylinder first).
    • Keep the reservoir topped up the whole time. If it runs dry, you'll pull air in and have to start over.
    Watch this step (16:07–17:16)

  9. Pump the pedal and bed in the pads

    • Pump the brake pedal until it's firm before you move the car.
    • Bed in the pads on a quiet road using the pad maker's instructions (usually a series of medium stops without coming to a full stop), then let them cool.
    Watch this step (17:16–17:46)

How to know it worked

Did this guide work for you?

Safety first

  • Park on flat, solid ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
  • Use jack stands rated for your car. Never get under a car held up only by a jack.
  • Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before touching them.
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging sensors or electrical parts.
  • Wear safety glasses, and gloves around sharp heat shields and hot fluids.
  • Tighten bolts to the torque spec in your factory service manual.
  • If a step doesn't match your car or you're unsure, stop and ask a shop.

These are overview steps written to help you plan the job. Always follow the instructions that come with your part and the procedures and torque specs in your factory service manual. Horsepower is an estimate; results vary.