Home › BMW 3 Series E46 › Coilovers
E46 Coilovers
Your E46
Pick your year so we only show parts that fit your car.
In the US, 1999 E46s were sedans only, and 2006 E46s were coupes and convertibles only. M3s aren't covered yet.
Why do it
Adjustable height and damping turn the E46 into a sharp, flat-cornering car. Choose a street-friendly setting unless it's a track car.
Heads up
Coilovers change the alignment a lot. Get a professional alignment right after installing them.
Tools you'll need
- Floor jack + jack stands
- Socket and wrench set (13, 16 and 18mm are used a lot)
- Torque wrench
- Breaker bar
- Rubber mallet
- Trim tool (for the trunk panels)
- Penetrating oil
Parts to buy
- BC Racing BR Series coilovers (I-02-BR) For rear-wheel-drive 1999–2005 sedans and 2000–2006 coupes. Not for xi (AWD), wagons or convertibles.Fits 1999–2006 · 323, 328, 325, 330 · sedan, coupe only
Doesn't fit your car (0)
Always double-check fitment for your exact year, trim and transmission before buying. Prices change. ModBuddy doesn't earn money from these links.
Before you start
- The BC Racing BR kit we list is for rear-wheel-drive sedans and coupes only. It doesn't fit xi (AWD), wagons or convertibles.
- Measure your ride height at all four corners (center of the wheel to the fender lip) before you start.
- Book an alignment for the same day or the next. Driving far on a bad alignment wears tires out fast.
- Old E46 wheels often stick to the hubs. A firm kick on the tire (with the car safely on stands) usually breaks them free.
Video guide
Same BC Racing coilovers we list, front and rear. They also add rear shock mount reinforcement plates, which is optional but a good idea on an older E46. Each ▶ button below jumps to that step in the video.
Watch the whole videoSteps
Lift and remove the wheels
- Loosen the wheel bolts, raise the car and support it on jack stands under solid points, never on suspension parts.
- Remove the wheels.
Front: disconnect the parts on the strut
- Unbolt the sway bar end link from the strut (16mm nut and wrench on the back).
- Unclip the brake line and the pad wear sensor wire from the strut so nothing gets stretched. Never let the brake caliper hang by its hose.
Front: remove the old strut
- Remove the large pinch bolt where the strut slides into the hub (knuckle).
- Support the hub with a jack, then remove the three nuts on top of the strut tower in the engine bay.
- Tap the knuckle down gently with a mallet to open it, and slide the strut out.
Front: set up and fit the coilover
- Set both front coilovers to the same height to start. Measure the threads so left and right match.
- Line up the tab on the coilover with the slot in the knuckle, point the top mount the way the kit's instructions say, and jack the hub up until the strut seats fully. Then fit the pinch bolt and top nuts.
Rear: support the arm and undo the top
- Put a jack under the rear hub so it can't drop suddenly.
- Inside the trunk, remove the side trim panel to reach the two nuts on top of each rear shock, and remove them.
Rear: remove the shock and spring
- Remove the lower shock bolt at the hub.
- Have a helper push the rear arm down while you lift the spring out of its seat. On the E46 the rear spring and shock are separate.
Rear: fit the new spring and shock
- Fit the new spring with the height-adjustable perch the kit includes, then fit the shock.
- Jack the hub up until the lower bolt lines up, fit it, and refit the top nuts in the trunk.
Tip: In the video they tried running the rear springs without the perches and the car sat on its bump stops. Use the perches as BC's instructions show.
Watch this step (8:07–9:24)Torque, set height, then align
- Torque every bolt to the kit or service manual spec. Your manual will say which suspension bolts should be tightened with the car's weight on the wheels.
- Lower the car, roll it back and forth, measure the height, and adjust evenly side to side. Then get the alignment.
How to know it worked
- Car sits level side to side.
- No clunks over bumps.
- Steering wheel is straight after the alignment.
Did this guide work for you?
Fixes from the community:
Suggest a fix
For:
Safety first
- Park on flat, solid ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
- Use jack stands rated for your car. Never get under a car held up only by a jack.
- Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before touching them.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging sensors or electrical parts.
- Wear safety glasses, and gloves around sharp heat shields and hot fluids.
- Tighten bolts to the torque spec in your factory service manual.
- If a step doesn't match your car or you're unsure, stop and ask a shop.
These are overview steps written to help you plan the job. Always follow the instructions that come with your part and the procedures and torque specs in your factory service manual. Horsepower is an estimate; results vary.